San Miguel Atlapulco is a small rural town located in the municipality of Huehuetlán el Grande, Puebla, sitting at an elevation of approximately 1,650 meters above sea level. Nestled in hilly to mountainous terrain, the area enjoys a temperate climate with warm days and cooler nights, shaped by its mid-high elevation and surrounding valleys. With a population of around 1,370 inhabitants, the community is primarily Spanish-speaking, though a handful of residents still speak an indigenous language—hinting at deeper ancestral roots. While the town’s exact founding date is unclear, the municipality itself was officially established in 1895.

Atlapulco forms part of the mezcal-producing heartland of Puebla, where agave cultivation thrives on varied topography and mineral-rich soils. The surrounding landscape supports both cultivated and wild agave species, reflecting a delicate balance between tradition, biodiversity, and rural subsistence. Mezcal production in San Miguel Atlapulco (Huehuetlán el Grande) likely goes back at least to the early 20th century (circa 1920), and possibly much earlier—perhaps into the late 19th century or even the colonial era—though no published record confirms an exact date. Locals report there are “31 species of agaves mezcaleros” in Huehuetlán el Grande, though many may be less common, wild, or local landraces. Because wild species often grow slowly and in rough terrain, their use is more limited and prized for special mezcal expressions.

In San Miguel Atlapulco, mezcal is not made from one agave—it is born from a landscape of diversity, shaped by soil, sun, and centuries of tradition. Espadín may be the backbone of production, but wild agaves like Tobalá and Tepeztate provide the soul. Each plant has its story, and each bottle is a memory of both nature and culture.

Agaves of San Miguel Atlapulco

In the mezcalero landscape of San Miguel Atlapulco, agave isn’t just a plant—it’s a cultural axis. Each species carries with it centuries of memory, terroir, and technique.

• Espadín (Agave angustifolia), known locally as Espadilla: the region’s cornerstone. Grown in family plots and semi-wild groves, it matures in 6–8 years and offers high sugar yields. While not unique to Puebla, Atlapulco’s distinct microclimate—warm days, cool nights, and mineral-rich soils—shapes its flavor into something unmistakably local.

• Tobalá (Agave potatorum), sometimes called Papalometl: the wild poet of the Sierra. Small, slow-growing, and elusive, it hides among rocks and forests, taking over a decade to mature. Its mezcal is often reserved for special occasions: floral, delicate, and rooted in ritual. Harvesting it requires ancestral knowledge and a growing sense of ecological responsibility.

• Tepeztate (Agave marmorata), sometimes called Pichomel: even more patient, it reaches maturity in 15–20 years. Found clinging to steep canyon walls, it yields a bold, herbaceous mezcal layered with resinous and mineral notes. Its rarity calls for conservation, not just admiration.

Beyond these, locals also work with a range of landraces—Cupeatra, Crumeata, and variants of Papalometl—each with their own name, history, and behavior in the pit oven. These unnamed agaves reflect deep generational knowledge, not only of species, but also of taste, fire, and fermentation.

The continued use—and protection—of these endemic agaves is central to preserving the identity of mezcal in this part of Puebla.